This thesis seeks to undertake an analysis of the illustrated clothing history,
highlighting the role of images in this field of study. The research had as a triggering
object for questions the book Três Séculos de Modas/Three Centuries of Fashions, by
João Affonso, published in 1923, whose images were analyzed through symptoms
present in its set of 56 authorial illustrations. The text is divided into four sections: the
first is dedicated to listing the main theoretical meanings that influenced the critical and
investigative process, analyzing aspects of clothing and its visual aspects, historical
conceptions in the field of art and clothing, notions of anachronism and assembly as a
method. From these bases, the second part deals with accessing data on the canons
of clothing history, discussed by several authors, mapping a set of 35 works located in
digital collections referenced for consultation, which were divided into the following
categories: clothing books, costume books, prints and customs, romantic/historicist
books, modern books. In the third part, the analysis of the pioneering work in Brazil is
presented, presenting considerations about its diffusion, locating its characters and the
book within the previous historiography, in order to carry out the analysis of its images
via the assembly process, where identified symptoms were examined in the set of
illustrations (by the perception of postures, gestures, objects, silhouettes), which
generated the following interpretation categories: Armored; Expressive; Grace;
Fashionable; Essential Woman; Comfortable; Conformist; Modern Dandy. Such
categories demonstrate ways of representing emotions and mentalities about fashion
in Três Séculos de Modas, which can be understood as survivals, which had their
aspects discussed in the text and could be used in other research. Finally, in the last
topic, a historical approach was carried out on the illustrated books of clothing history
published in Brazil, highlighting some titles by Brazilian and foreign authors, moving
towards the so-called visual guides, and ending the thesis with a chronological analysis
that seeks to list the set of publications in this field of study in Brazil until 2019.
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